Montana-born Eric Eide trained and worked for a few years at several Oregon wineries before founding Aberrant Cellars. Renting cellar space and establishing, beginning with vintage 2010, a set of long-term leases that will permit him to call shots on the vineyard management of specific parcels, he is a full-time winemaker making solely his own wines, even though for now production is only in the thousand case range. Inspired by some of Burgundy’s self-styled traditionalists, Eide likes utilizing whole clusters with stems, 10-15% in the wines I recently tasted, but that will rise significantly in 2011, he notes, encouraged by long hang time and consequent stem lignification.